As one of the most powerful names in beauty, Tom Pecheux is the man behind many of history’s most memorable makeup moments. Princess Diana beaming on the cover of Vanity Fair, the inky black lips of Stefano Pilati’s finest Yves Saint Laurent show, the enigmatic glow on the models of Tom Ford’s Gucci campaigns – just a few of the dynamic images Pecheux had a hand in crafting.
While his influence is certainly felt within the pages of glossy magazines and on the runways of New York, Milan and Paris, Pecheux’s most far-reaching role may be that of creative makeup director of iconic cosmetics brand, Estée Lauder. As the force behind color collections and products for the beauty giant, Pecheux quietly shapes the look of millions of women globally – no small feat, but a role Pecheux takes on with modesty and grace. Talking to the makeup artist is like a guided tour through the last few decades of fashion history and a welcome glimpse behind the curtain and into those now legendary moments.
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How did your amazing career in makeup artistry begin?
It started when I was 19. I had just moved to Paris from the countryside where I was born and grew up. I was a pastry chef discovering Paris by night and it was a certain time. I went out quite a lot to different parties and clubs. I met this girl and she told me she was going to makeup school and I was like, “What?? Make up school? People do that for a living??” Fashion and makeup was all around, but I didn’t know anything about it. Two months later the idea was still stuck in my head and I ran into the same girl again and asked her all of my questions. I went to see the school and fell in love with it. I talked to my parents about it and they were shocked, but they were amazing parents and said if you need support we are here. I think they could feel that I had a passion. I still love pastry and cooking too; I love the connection it gives to people and friends.
The concept of this collection is “Illicit Nudes”. Nude is a recurring theme within the heritage of YSL Beauté. Why is it so important?
Nude is about a certain controversy, an irreverence, but there is also a true sophistication about it, and that’s always been a part of YSL Beauté Colour, texture, beautiful clothes these things bring a true pleasure. To this we add a playful sensibility because sophistication isn’t always about a bright colour, or a dark colour – sometimes nudity brings with it gentleness, discretion YSL Beauté is about every piece of femininity there’s not one piece missing, it’s all there.
What makes the nude of YSL Beauté so different?
Actually, there are few things that make this collection of nudes different. Firstly, the technology. We have been able to create nudes with an undertone of colour, so that they are actually very colourful Within the established colour families red undertones, brown undertones and so on we have found the perfect nude for every skin tone. Secondly, our textures give the lip colours an edge. These are nudes with an underlying glow, a radiance imparted by iridescent pearls in different tones, which further bring out your natural lip tone.
What is the best way to know which finish suits us best?
That depends on what texture you like on your lips The Slim Glow Matte feels like velvet but has a matte finish – this is one massive improvement in technology as matte lip colours always used to feel so dry. The pearls give your lips a certain glow and luminosity. You can choose which colour you like depending on your mood there are so many variations It has a glossier visual effect. So it depends on what you like to wear on your face be individual, be unique, be yourself!
What is the difference between The Slim Glow Matte and The Slim?
Matte will always be an important lipstick finish, but sometimes we forget that matte if you think about it has luminous depths according to how it is captured in the light. Sometimes if you are painting a wall for example, and the paint has a certain finish, the wall can look shiny in some lights, yet it’s still matte. The Slim is matte, with a beautiful matte finish, it’s that simple. But The Slim Glow Matte has the addition of pearls to give that luminous quality a bit like the matte paint on the wall hit by evening light It’s not glossy, it’s not satin it’s matte but with a subtle glow.
Any tips on how best to apply The Slim Glow Matte?
These are such friendly lipsticks! You can slide it on straight from the tube for a powerful finish, or dab it on if you’d like a little extra texture. You don’t need a brush or a pencil because the square shape of the bullet keeps the line in place you don’t even need to blot it.
How did you go about creating this range of colours so that they would perfectly fit within the concept of nude?
There is a nude for a woman in Senegal, and in Japan, and in Ireland, and in Sweden, and they’d all be different if you were to line up the makeup products. And therein lies the beauty of the nude, it’s about different parts of the world, different ethnicities, and embracing all the colours in between So to create this in a collection of lip colours, you have to think of every woman, rather than specific girls. This is something you do anyway as a makeup artist, you’re creating with an open mind rather than thinking about what colour suits you personally. But above and beyond that, it’s a wonderful time to be creating a nude collection based on all different kind of skin tones just as the world is going through an important time of celebrating diversity It’s fantastic.
